We wanted to walk a few blocks away to find a restaurant that wasn't too touristy. Tucked into a nook at the back of an alley, we found a place that fit the bill. And oh, what a great meal we had!! The only downer was the group of American tourists (sounded like New Yorkers....) sitting at the table next to us. Yelling (yes, yelling) for the waiter to bring them some butter for their bread (this is not bread meant for buttering), and for ice cubes to put into their wine. Yes, ice cubes in their wine. We cringed and pretended to be Canadian.
The dinner was divine--fried artichokes for an appetizer, seafood pasta for Ethan, and tortellini for me, with a shared bottle of rose wine. We also had a chocolate dessert to share whose name totally escapes me....but it was delicious.